Getting Your Flower Fix in Rome

“The earth laughs in flowers.” Ralph Waldo Emerson

Rome is a beautiful city, but in spring time, it's like the prettiest woman wearing her best dress.  There are many ways to enjoy spring to the max in Rome.  Read on to see where to get your flower fix!

1. The Rose Garden
Rome's rose garden is a magical place, open to the public from
April to June ( April 21st to June 19th this year).  Over a thousand types of roses are in bloom and their perfume is something you will never forget.  Address: Via di Valle Murcia 6.  You can get there taking the metro's B line and getting off at the Circo Massimo exit.  It's hours of operations are 8:30 am to 7:30 pm.

2. Flowers on the Spanish Steps

The Spanish Steps are a great spot to take a break from all the walking you do around Rome.  Tourists and locals alike sit down in these ancient steps and enjoy the view of downtown Rome and the fashion houses around Via Condotti.  In spring, the city displays hundreds of azaleas in bloom making this spot even more memorable.  This year however, because of the maintenance being performed to the ancient steps, the azalea display will be moved to the steps of the Campidoglio (Rome's city hall).

3. The Garden of Ninfa

This garden is for serious flower lovers, it is one of the most beautiful gardens in the world!  It is located outside of Rome's city center so you will need to arrange transportation there, but it is a paradise on earth.  There are guided tours and now you can make reservations online.  Click here for more information.  They only allow a small number of people to visit the gardens every year.  So if you are serious about adding this stop to your itinerary, plan ahead.

4. Villa D'Este

Located 30 minutes outside of Rome in Tivoli, Villa D'Este with it's 16th century garden is one of the best examples of a Renaissance garden.  Adorned with fountains and statues, it will make you feel like a queen or king, especially during the spring time.

If you are planning to visit Rome in April or May, make sure you get your flower fix in these top four Roman gardens and find inspiration for your own garden at home.

Arrivederci for now,

Off The Beaten Path: Orvieto

“A day spent without the sight or sound of beauty, the contemplation of mystery, or the search of truth is a poverty-stricken day; and a succession of such days is fatal to human life.” Lewis Mumford

Sometimes we have this idea that in order to disconnect and recharge we have to go to far away lands or to an exotic paradise.  While living in Italy, I was hoping to see all its regions and whenever I had a chance to travel, I went to destinations as far from Rome as possible.  I kept putting nearby day-trips aside for later.

Finally, one day I decided to visit Orvieto, a town north of Rome, located in the Umbria region and only an hour and a half drive from Rome.  I've heard of it, but I didn't know the true jewel I was going to find there. 

TIP: Many times, due to time constrains, travelers have to decide between visiting the north or the south of Italy.  If you choose to tour Southern Italy, a visit to Orvieto will give you a taste of the northern medieval towns without too much of a detour from Rome.  The town sits on top of a hill and once you get there there is a fantastic view of the country side from the municipal parking area. 

I was fascinated by the charm of Orvieto.  Its cathedral with horizontal black and white stripes on its sides and vertical pink and blue lines on the facade, in addition to the elaborate decorative stone work is so beautiful you want to sit on the other side of the piazza and just stare at it for a while.  

Another spot you must visit in Orvieto is Saint Patrick's Well.  Completed in the year 1,537 was originally commissioned by Pope Clemente VII to ensure proper water supply for the city during times of turmoil.  The engineering of the well is impressive.  A center circular shaft 200 feet deep is surrounded by two spiral staircases built in such way that they don't ever collide.  It was design so two mules could access the well at the same time without crossing paths.  Each staircase has 248 steps, and for the modest sum of five euro and a little bit of courage, you can descend to the bottom of the well.  A fantastic experience! Make sure to take breaks and look up or down through the arched windows that provide light to the entire structure.

If you are tired after the stair master class, take a break on the main piazza, sipping some wine and maybe buying the beautiful umbrian pottery.

That is all for today, arrivederci amici!

Thing To Do While in Rome: The Trevi Fountain

"Marcello, come here, hurry up!" Anita Ekberg as Sylivia in La Dolce Vita

The Trevi Fountain is one of the most magical spots in Rome, and after going through seventeen months of renovations it reopened to the public last month.  A stop at the fountain is a must for any visitor.  The legend says that if you throw a coin into the fountain, you will come back to Rome, and who doesn't want to be back!  I threw more than one coin and I hope to be back soon.

The streets that lead you to the fountain are typical narrow cobble-stone alleys and when you turn the corner and the area opens up to this wonderful fountain you do need a a few seconds to contemplate it and take it all in.  

The fountain is a iconic symbol of the city.  It represents the taming of the waters by Oceanus, the  god of the seas.  It beautifies the facade of a historic building and is so large in size that overpowers the small square that hosts it.  This fantastic fountain was featured in Fellini's film La Dolce Vita.  In the film, a beautiful and voluptuous Anita Edberg, wondering the streets of Rome late at night, stumbles upon the fountain, and gets in it calling her love interest, a very handsome Marcello Mastroianni, who eventually gives up and joins her.  If you have not seen the movie, check out the scene here.

The fountain dates back to 1762 and it is fed by one of the oldest aqueducts of the city of Rome.  It is a busy tourist spot but if you get there early in the morning you might just have it all to yourself.  Of course the fountain becomes even more beautiful at night, and now, after the renovation, night-time illumination has improved tremendously.  

If you happen to be visiting the fountain close to dinner time, eat at trattoria Al Moro (Vicolo delle Bollette 13, Phone 06.67.83.495).  Is always better to make reservations.  They are known for their typical Roman cuisine, and everything I tried there was wonderful.  (If you want to learn more about what dishes to order when in Rome read this)

I hope you get to visit this wonderful piece of history and don't forget to throw your coin to ensure your return to Rome!!

Arrivederci for now,

Dressing Like an Italian: Fall's Ultimate Accessory

“Wear that scarf," he said, pointing to a blue cashmere scarf hanging on a peg. "It matches your eyes." Cassandra Clare, City of Lost Souls

Fall is definitely here and in Italy the cooler weather is synonymous with scarves.  They come in all shapes and colors, are made of different materials and you can buy one as cheap as five euro.    A scarf adds a drop of style and a pop of color to your outfit and Italians wear them best.

Now, there is another reason why Italians use these wonderful scarves and it's called the "colpo d'aria" meaning a blast of air/wind.  And wind my friends can be a dangerous thing in Italy, at least for Italians.  Don't get me started with a blast of air conditioned breeze, that is deadly!  It is believed that if cool air hits your neck, you will certainly get sick or worse.  Hence, as soon as the weather starts getting colder women, men, kids...everyone! wears a scarf called "sciarpa" (pronounced: sharpa) in Italian.

How to use one you may ask?  There is the monochrome look, where you tend to stay in the color palette of your outfit.  There is also the pop of color, where you use a colorful scarf to add detail to a more serious outfit (read this to learn where else you can add color to your outfit).

I had a few scarves when I arrived in Italy but I have to confess that my collection grew while living in Rome.  A simple google search will show you a million ways of wearing this fall's ultimate accessory.  Go to your drawers, I'm sure you'll find one, and play with it.  Have fun with your outfit, life is too short to be too serious.

Enjoy the fall weather, the color on the leaves and the beautiful scarves!!

Arrivederci for now,

10 Things You Should Do BEFORE Moving to Italy

“Open my heart and you will see graved inside of it, "Italy".”  Robert Browning

Do you want to sell it all and move to Italy?   I've had the joy of living in Rome for the last few years and I am thankful for that amazing experience.  I still didn't realize the kind of pull Italy has on so many of us until last summer.  During a stay in Washington DC I took my sons to the Koshland Science Museum.  One of the interactive exhibits asked people to write down their biggest dream; as I browsed through the answers I was shocked to find so many entries about visiting, touring, and even moving to Italy.  I realized at that moment I was one of the lucky ones who was actually living the dream.  I also consider myself a realist and I know that even if you think you are living the dream, there are some days when you can have a nightmare or two...

Have you read the news about Italy lately?  You'll see words like "crisis, strikes, decline.."  What is that all about?  Italy is as wonderful as it is complicated, you can choose which side to dwell on, but you still have to live with both.

If you are visiting Italy (read this first!) you can concentrate on the beauty, the art, the wonderful cuisine and the wine.  But if you are moving there you do have to open your eyes completely and see the reality of the daily life.  Here are some pointers that will make your move a little less complicated:

1. Learn the language, learn the language, learn the language!  Your experience will be completely different if you can communicate and eventually meet local friends.  The Italian language is beautiful but its grammar is very complex.   Any time you put into it will pay off at the end.
2. Change your mind set.   Easier said than done.  Take the time to observe, and absorb the culture.   Read about it (I personally recommend "As Romans Do"by Alan Epstein), watch Italian films, get to know the local idiosyncrasies...  Do as the locals do (if you insist on finding eggs for breakfast you'll be disappointed, if you change to coffee and cornetto, you'll find yourself in the right place all the time!)
3. Be patient!  Everything happens at a different pace over there.  Slow down and enjoy the vino!
4. Make connections.  In Italy you're a stranger or you're family.  When you first get there you'll be a stranger, it takes time to make connections, start with your local market vendors, practice the Italian you've learned, be patient.  Try to go the same stores so the clerks recognize you and  you'll eventually become family.
5. Enjoy your surroundings, if you are having a bad day, go for a walk around town and it will remind you of the reason you moved there in the first place.
6. Look for a support group.  Find other expats in your city, they know what you're going trough and can help you when you hit a road block.
7. Take it easy!  Rome wasn't built in one day.  And your life in Italy won't be either.  Italian bureaucracy is known for being complicated beyond belief and just the fact of  moving can be very stressful, so take it easy!
8. Travel! Even after you settle in one city, there are 20 very different regions in Italy.   Venture out to the not-so-touristy ones.  See as much as you can, they are all wonderful!
9. Stop comparing!  There is nothing helpful about comparing your new life to your old one.  If you moved there with children, read this! One Easy Think you Can Do to Help your Kids Adjust to a New Culture.
10. Be patient!  The first year it's all about settling in, if you survive it you passed the test, you've made it! Every time after that will be a bonus.  

I hope these tips can help all the serious Italophiles have a better reality when they get to live the dream.

Arrivederci for now,

Beware, we are in Ferragosto

"When all else fails, take a vacation" Betty Williams

Hello! If you are in the northern hemisphere I  hope you are enjoying a wonderful summer.  If you were in Italy right now, you would be immersed is some strange but lovely phenomenon called Ferragosto.

So what is Ferragosto?  Officially, Ferragosto is an Italian holiday celebrated on August 15 a tradition born 2,000 years ago when the Romans celebrated the end of the grain harvesting season with well-deserved festivities and a break from work.  The Church being unable to stop the festivities added the celebration of the Assumption of Mary to August 15.  But to say Ferragosto is a summer holiday would not be even scratching the surface.

In Itay and many other parts of Europe, most people take their vacation during the month of August (Agosto in Italian, hence the second part of the Ferr-agosto word).  If you are planning to  travel to Europe during the month of August make sure you book your accommodations well in advance, unless you want your only overnight option to be a yacht for 36,000 Euro a night; been there, have not done that.

But let's look a little more into the realities of Ferragosto:

• As every employee wants to take their vacation during the month of August many small businesses just close completely for a couple of weeks in August.
• If you are trying to get anything done during the month of August, Forget About It!  Just accept the fact that everyone you have to deal with is on vacation, about to go on vacation or not even there.
• You can basically scratch the month of August from the calendar and join everyone else at the beach (like Sperlonga or Vieste) or the cooler mountains.
• Be prepared for tons of traffic anywhere near the ocean.
• If you decide to stay in the city, enjoy the abundance of parking spaces and zero traffic but remember, most businesses will be closed and is really too hot to do anything anyway.
• There is even a word in the Italian language for the day when everything goes back to the normal daily routine:  "Rientro" meaning re-entry, after Ferragosto, or course.  
• Look for the religious festivities of the Assumption of Mary, being one of the most popular celebrations the one in Siena.

As I day dream of past Ferragostos and get ready to continue the tradition this year, I hope you are enjoying the warm and long days of summer.

Arrivederci for now,

Around Rome: So You Want to See the Pope

“We need saints without cassocks, without veils - we need saints with jeans and tennis shoes." Pope Francis

So you want to see the Pope.  Me too.  Whether you are Catholic or not, Pope Francis is the leader of the smallest country in the world and a charismatic and revolutionary figure in today's world.  His teachings are about peace, personal service and humility.  Ideals to which people from different faiths can relate.  Many Christians and non-Christians alike come to Rome to hear His teachings and receive His blessings.  So here is the breakdown on how to see the Pope.

Papal Audiences happen every Wednesday Pope Francis is in town.  You will need tickets (click here to order tickets) if you want to be closer to the outdoor altar area, but even if you didn't get a ticket, there is plenty of standing area from where you can see and hear the Pope.  If you want to be in the sitting areas, you'll have to arrive at 8:00 am or earlier.  

Everyone coming into the square will have to go through security (bags and all belongings will be X-rayed) and people have to go through a metal detector.  Once you go through security you can access the sitting area if you are there early or stand around the square.

Today I was in St. Peter's square for the audience and my friends and I chose to stand by the barriers placed to mark the path of the Pope-mobile.  What a great decision that was!  If you are first on the barrier you will see the Pope as close as you can possibly see Him.  

These summer days with intense heat, make sure to bring a hat and a bottle of water.  The audience is scheduled for 10:30 but the Pope comes out earlier and goes around the square in his Pope-mobile blessing the visitors.  After that, He will talk to the people on the square after a reading from the Bible in different languages.

How to get there:

By metro: Take line A on the Metro and get off at the Ottaviano/SanPietro metro stop.  From there it's an easy walk to Saint Peter's square. Follow the masses.
By car: Park at the Gianicolo Parking lot located at VIA URBANO VIII 16/C 00165 ROMA 

Things You Shouldn't Miss:

• After the general audience enter Saint Peter's Basilica and marvel at Michelangelo's The Pieta and Bernini's altar.
• Go up the steps and see Rome from the cupola of Saint Peter's basilica.  Take great pictures from there.
• Walk through the colonnade designed by Bernini. 

If you want to see the Sistine Chapel, you'll have to leave Saint Peter's square and go to the Vatican Museums.  It's better to get your tickets on-line ahead of time (tickets here).

I hope you found this information useful.  I feel blessed by having had the opportunity to see the Pope today and wish to pass my blessings on to you. 

God bless you.

Rome With Kids: Domus at Palazzo Valentini

“There are two kinds of travel: first class and with children.”  Robert Benchley

Rome is a wonderful city for those who appreciate art and history, but what about those traveling with children or teenagers? The answer is yes! Rome can also be a great destination for people traveling with children... if you play your cards right.

I've been traveling a lot for the last 18 years, and all my travels have included my kids.  I'm not saying it's easy, but if you manage your expectations correctly you can have a great time and see some sites at the same time.

Rule number one and the most important one for me: don't expect to see it all, pick some highlights and visit your choice spots.

Rule number two: keep a flexible schedule.  If your little ones are tired and cranky, no one will have a good time.

Rule number three: if all fails, there is always gelato (and wine).

Last week I visited the Domus Romane under Palazzo Valentini and I couldn't wait to tell you all about it!  The domus were the houses of wealthy romans and the one under Palazzo Valentini has been turned into a multimedia museum.  The tour (for which you have to get tickets in advance here) allows you to visit a Roman Senator's extravagant home, imagine attending an open-house in times of the Roman Republic! This is the kind of experience you'll get.  

A visit to the Palazzo Valentini Domus Romane is great for older kids as they won't be looking at ruins, the tour is actually a multimedia experience, so when they are explaining that there was a pool in the room, you'll hear the sound of children splashing in the water.  The remains of the room become alive when laser beams fill in the missing parts of the room giving you an amazing visual of how the house actually was.  Older kids and teens will totally be into this museum!

When traveling with kids to the Eternal city, you may want to add a stop at Villa Borghese.  It is the one park that is most accesible to tourists  (Villa Borghese sits next to the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo, right in the city center).  There, you can find Segway rides, bicycle rentals and more, so take a break from the madness of the tours and insert some free time into your schedule.  Read all about Villa Borghese here.

Lastly, when in Rome, do as the Romans do.  Go to a piazza, buy a gelato and let the kids run around and watch the street performers that are always present in the city squares.

Do you have any tips for traveling with kids?  Would love to hear about them!

Making Time for the Simple Pleasures

“Slow down and enjoy life. It's not only the scenery you miss by going too fast - you also miss the sense of where you are going and why.”  Eddie Cantor

This may sound like an odd question, but have you ever been in a "slow town"?  I have.  I was there last weekend and let me tell you it was slow!  Most urban folks are used to the fast-paced cities where everything moves at hurricane-speed.  Women, the ultimate multitaskers, are constantly going through an imaginary revolving door, going from one activity to the other and when you are trapped going at that rhythm, it is very hard to slow down.

A trip to Italy might just re-set your RPMs.  Italians are fantastic at slowing down.  After living here for a few years I have a renewed appreciation for their take on what's important in life.  Apparently, slowing down will not only be beneficial to your heart health,  it will also improve your chances of loosing weight and even boost your sex life (Read: 8 Reasons to Slow Down).  It seams to me that every Italian person has read and practices the suggestions of this article.  For example, when I first arrived in Italy I would be furious when there was a cloud of people in front of a counter all waiting to be helped by one single person, then I realized I was the only one bothered by the situation, everyone else waited patiently.  There you have it, 50% more chances of developing high blood pressure, while Italians with their natural Zen, will live forever...

So, back to the Slow City, it is called Sperlonga and it is located two hours south of Rome.  It is a sea-side town with an old village on top of a hill, overlooking the ocean.  The Hotel Aurora is a great option for those traveling there as it is located right next to a central piazza and on the water front.  Sipping a Spritz on the terrace, will definitively make you slow down your RPMs! (Can I now reclaim my low blood pressure please?!)

At one of our lunches at the hotel, we were given only a couple of options from which to choose, the menu of the day basically; less options = less stress.  Another day we dinned in the town, and the food came to our table an hour after we sat down.  A disgrace of a restaurant you may say.....but NO! we did get an antipasto and our wine, and were dinning "al fresco" staring at the calming waves (disclaimer: my kids got their pasta dishes right away and moved on to play in the sand).... it was a perfect time for conversation, relaxation and mindful eating, all the skills we loose with our fast-paced lives.

Even if you are not in Italy, take a minute of your day to be grateful for the sweet smells of spring, or the softness of your child's embrace.  Take another minute to savor your meals, ditch a couple of unnecessary tasks and go outside to feel the warmth of the sun touching your skin.  At the end of the day, that is what life is all about, isn't it?

Now I will say "arrivederci" in sloooow motion.....until next time,

Things to Do While in Rome: See it from the Sky!

“You will never know how high you can climb until you reach the top.” K.L. Toth

I have been living in Rome for a while now, and I have walked several times around the Vittorio Emmanuele monument in Piazza Venezzia, but had not climbed to the top until last week.  I was by myself, having a date with Rome; on the days I choose to wander around and get cosy with this wonderful city, I walk without a destination, letting myself get lost in its labyrinth of cobble-stone alleys, only deciding where to turn when I get to the end of a street.  

So I ended up in Piazza Venezia at the Vittorio Emmanuele monument, with its many steps and sculptures.  Piazza Venezia is the heart of the city, marking the end of Via del Corso and the beginning of the Roman Forum.  I know I've said other squares are also the heart of Rome, it's just that Rome has more than one heart.

If you decide to make the climb up the steps of this monument, after reaching the first terrace you'll find the tomb to the Unknown Soldier, right under the Goddess Roma and flanked with two eternal flames.  An entrance to the inside of the monument is also found at this level.  Three museums are housed inside this enormous monument, one to the Italian Flag, another to the Italian Unification and the National Museum of Italian Immigration.

But the best part to this monument is around the back.  If you walk around the first terrace towards the back of the steps you just climbed, you'll find a panoramic elevator that will take you, for seven euros, to the very top of this monument.  Once you exit the elevator your jaw will drop as you'll be in front of one of the most breathtaking views in all of Rome, because you can see a 360 view of the city.  Colisseum, cupolas of the many churches around town, the Roman Forum,  you can see it all from here.

I know you may be rushing from one fountain to another, from one church to another church, but believe me, if you want a birds-eye view of all your Roman landmarks, take the elevator on the Vittorio Emmanuele monument and see Rome from the sky!

Arrivederci for now,

Happy Birthday Roma

“Look back over the past, with its changing empires that rose and fell, and you can foresee the future too.”  Marcus Aurelius 

Happy Birthday Rome!!  This Tuesday April 21st, Rome will be celebrating it's 2768th birthday.  Like every year, the city organizes cultural events and reenactments.  I rushed to the forum this morning to bring you a sneak peek into what is going to happen starting today, until Tuesday. 

Most reenactments will happen at the Circus Maximus, a span of green behind the colosseum.  There is plenty of room for everyone to celebrate with Rome.  There are a few stands that sell commemorative t-shirts, Roman times paraphernalia and food.  For additional information of the festivities click here  

To arrive to the festivities, the closest metro stop is Circo Massimo, a stop on the B Line.  You can also use the Colosseo stop which is the one located right in front of the Colisseum. 

Additionally, in celebration of the city's birthday, the museums run by the city are free to the public and will open until midnight on April 21st.  Some special exhibits will still require a ticket.  

There will also be concerts by military bands in many of the city's squares, so be there or be square!  Lastly, the city will inaugurate a special lighting system that will make the forum shine more than ever.  If you have plans to visit Rome (please read this first) it may be a good idea to plan your trip around April 21 and take part of the festivities, needless to say the weather this time of the year is just perfect.

Arrivederci for now,

Garden Inspirations from a Roman Emperor

"If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need" Marcus Tullius Cicero

Spring is finally here in Rome and if there is anything synonymous with spring, it is a garden. Today I visited two wonderful places located forty minutes outside of Rome, in a town called Tivoli: The Villa D'Este and Hadrian's Villa.  Villa D'Este has the most wonderful gardens you can imagine, and I would post hundreds of pictures if I could.

If you are planning to revamp your garden, why not take some inspiration from these UNESCO world heritage sites?  I'm not an empress and certainly I'm no gardener (I have the brownest thumb anyone can have), but I've found much needed inspiration in the gardens of Villa D'Este and Hadrian's Villa to try to apply to the garden of my humble home. 

Here are some pointers of what I saw today:

1. Consider adding rhythm to your garden: Find something you like and repeat, repeat and repeat. 

2. Add a fruit tree to your garden, they are beautiful and yummy at the same time.  Plus the reward of knowing where your food comes from is priceless!

3. A water feature will make you feel like an empress/emperor

4. Flowers flowers everywhere.  We are all used to flower beds, have you considered having flowers above your head?

5. Multi-Function Shrubs: Rosemary is resilient, edible and has beautiful blooms, if Emperor Hadrian used it so can you.

I hope you enjoyed today's post, if you have any other gardening advise please leave it in the comments section, I need all the help and motivation I can get.

Arrivederci for now,