Showing posts with label Recommendations. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Recommendations. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 27, 2016

Getting Your Flower Fix in Rome

“The earth laughs in flowers.” Ralph Waldo Emerson




Rome is a beautiful city, but in spring time, it's like the prettiest woman wearing her best dress.  There are many ways to enjoy spring to the max in Rome.  Read on to see where to get your flower fix!

1. The Rose Garden
Rome's rose garden is a magical place, open to the public from
April to June ( April 21st to June 19th this year).  Over a thousand types of roses are in bloom and their perfume is something you will never forget.  Address: Via di Valle Murcia 6.  You can get there taking the metro's B line and getting off at the Circo Massimo exit.  It's hours of operations are 8:30 am to 7:30 pm.

2. Flowers on the Spanish Steps



The Spanish Steps are a great spot to take a break from all the walking you do around Rome.  Tourists and locals alike sit down in these ancient steps and enjoy the view of downtown Rome and the fashion houses around Via Condotti.  In spring, the city displays hundreds of azaleas in bloom making this spot even more memorable.  This year however, because of the maintenance being performed to the ancient steps, the azalea display will be moved to the steps of the Campidoglio (Rome's city hall).

3. The Garden of Ninfa

This garden is for serious flower lovers, it is one of the most beautiful gardens in the world!  It is located outside of Rome's city center so you will need to arrange transportation there, but it is a paradise on earth.  There are guided tours and now you can make reservations online.  Click here for more information.  They only allow a small number of people to visit the gardens every year.  So if you are serious about adding this stop to your itinerary, plan ahead.

4. Villa D'Este
Located 30 minutes outside of Rome in Tivoli, Villa D'Este with it's 16th century garden is one of the best examples of a Renaissance garden.  Adorned with fountains and statues, it will make you feel like a queen or king, especially during the spring time.



If you are planning to visit Rome in April or May, make sure you get your flower fix in these top four Roman gardens and find inspiration for your own garden at home.

Arrivederci for now,




Friday, September 11, 2015

Small Little Victories

“A small daily task, if it be really daily, will beat the labours of a spasmodic Hercules.”  Anthony Trollope

The life of an Expat family is full of surprises.  Sometimes they are nice surprises, sometimes they are not.  At the end of the day one thing is a constant: change!  This summer it was my time for change.  Picking up all your belongings and moving them across oceans is no easy task but for us expats, it's just part of life.  I often get blank stares when I talk to non-travelers and I even get remarks like: "are you crazy!?" "how can you do this to your kids", "it must be so difficult!".  Truth be told, I've always enjoyed my moves, and thinking back on all the adventures I've experienced with my traveling family, I wouldn't change our lifestyle for any other. 

The post of today is all about settling in a new place.  The laws of settling-in apply exactly the same no matter where you go.  Since I just went through the process, or better yet, since I'm in the middle of it, I thought I would share one very important tip about moving to a new house.  Here it is:

"Small little victories"



Remember that phrase!  When you move, there's a million things you have to think about: school for the kids, vaccinations, registrations, shipments, boxes.  There is no planner big enough for the flood of tasks we have to face when moving to a new destination.  On top of it all, you don't have your "stuff", until you finally get it and with it comes the chaos of reorganizing a home for your family.  So, take it easy.  Choose one important task a day and tackle it.  If everything else falls apart in the mean time, fudgetaboutit! 

A couple of weeks ago, when I was overwhelmed with boxes from past lives and some from my latest life in Italy, I decided, eating was really important for my family so I forgot about everything else and concentrated on cleaning one side of the kitchen so I could have counter space on which to prep meals.  Maybe for you the "task of the day" is to have the desk space clean to be able to telecommute.  Maybe it's to schedule your internet connection so precisely that you will not be one second without an on-line presence.  Whatever it is, concentrate on one task at a time.  It will help you keep your sanity.  

Some days, just organizing one single drawer will feel like a victory, a small little victory.  And step by step, little by little, you will continue putting everything in its new place.  And like my friend Monica says, some days you just have to close the door and go for fresh air.

If you moved or are moving this year, I feel your pain.  If you have another tip that will help the expat community, please share it with us.  We'll certainly appreciate it!!

Arrivederci for now,




Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Around Rome: So You Want to See the Pope

“We need saints without cassocks, without veils - we need saints with jeans and tennis shoes." Pope Francis


So you want to see the Pope.  Me too.  Whether you are Catholic or not, Pope Francis is the leader of the smallest country in the world and a charismatic and revolutionary figure in today's world.  His teachings are about peace, personal service and humility.  Ideals to which people from different faiths can relate.  Many Christians and non-Christians alike come to Rome to hear His teachings and receive His blessings.  So here is the breakdown on how to see the Pope.

Papal Audiences happen every Wednesday Pope Francis is in town.  You will need tickets (click here to order tickets) if you want to be closer to the outdoor altar area, but even if you didn't get a ticket, there is plenty of standing area from where you can see and hear the Pope.  If you want to be in the sitting areas, you'll have to arrive at 8:00 am or earlier.  

Everyone coming into the square will have to go through security (bags and all belongings will be X-rayed) and people have to go through a metal detector.  Once you go through security you can access the sitting area if you are there early or stand around the square.




Today I was in St. Peter's square for the audience and my friends and I chose to stand by the barriers placed to mark the path of the Pope-mobile.  What a great decision that was!  If you are first on the barrier you will see the Pope as close as you can possibly see Him.  

These summer days with intense heat, make sure to bring a hat and a bottle of water.  The audience is scheduled for 10:30 but the Pope comes out earlier and goes around the square in his Pope-mobile blessing the visitors.  After that, He will talk to the people on the square after a reading from the Bible in different languages.

How to get there:

By metro: Take line A on the Metro and get off at the Ottaviano/SanPietro metro stop.  From there it's an easy walk to Saint Peter's square. Follow the masses.
By car: Park at the Gianicolo Parking lot located at VIA URBANO VIII 16/C 00165 ROMA 

Things You Shouldn't Miss:

  • After the general audience enter Saint Peter's Basilica and marvel at Michelangelo's The Pieta and Bernini's altar.
  • Go up the steps and see Rome from the cupola of Saint Peter's basilica.  Take great pictures from there.
  • Walk through the colonnade designed by Bernini. 

If you want to see the Sistine Chapel, you'll have to leave Saint Peter's square and go to the Vatican Museums.  It's better to get your tickets on-line ahead of time (tickets here).

I hope you found this information useful.  I feel blessed by having had the opportunity to see the Pope today and wish to pass my blessings on to you. 

God bless you.


Friday, June 5, 2015

Off The Beaten Path: Arezzo

"We won! We got a thousand points and we won the game! Daddy and me came in first and now we won the real tank! We won! We won!" Giosuè Orefice, Life is Beautiful




This one is for movie lovers.  A couple of years ago, I was returning to Rome from a trip to northern Italy when my sons all of a sudden were starving! This is how it goes with teenage boys, you never get a notice of someone being a little hungry, you go from zero to starving in two seconds.  We decided to stop for lunch at the next town, whatever it might be.  After all, we were in Italy, and you never have a bad meal in Italy!  The next sign on the highway read Arezzo.

As we navegated this town, I found it extremely charming and even a little bit familiar.  While I read one of the signs with descriptions of the city square, my heart started racing as I realized the Oscar-winning movie "Life is Beautiful" was filmed in Arezzo.  No wonder it looked familiar!

I love "Life is Beautiful", if you haven't seen this heart-warming film, I highly recommend it!  It's a masterpiece of Italian cinematography.  The Academy agrees.   The famous phrase "Buongiorno Principessa" (Goodmorning princess) that you'll see adorning many Italian souvenirs,  is a quote from this film (watch the trailer here). 


Arezzo is an Etruscan town and after visiting Florence and Milan with their extravagant cathedrals, the churches in Arezzo are a breath of fresh air, being their beauty their simplicity, especially the Church of Saint Francis (San Francesco). 

If you go coo-coo for ceramics make sure to stop at Aretè on Piazza Grande.  They have a wonderful selection of high relief terracotta sculptures and unique souvenirs that will remind you of your time in beautiful Tuscany.  Of course I had to ask the lady at the store for a restaurant recommendation, she sent me to Antica Osteria L'Agania.  The meal I had there was absolutely delicious.  Try their pappardelle al Cinghiale (flat long pasta with wild boar red sauce).

Between being the backdrop to an Oscar winning film, wonderful tuscan terra-cotta art, beautiful churches and amazing cuisine, Arezzo has enough charm to make it a great addition to your itinerary.  If you are not one to fight a million other tourists and want to see Italy beyond Rome, Venice and Florence,  visit Arezzo and you will not be disappointed.  Lastly, if you time your visit right and happen to be there on the first Sunday of the month, you'll be greeted by its famous antiques market. 

I was so mesmerized by Arezzo that I have been back a couple of times since my first hungry stop.  I hope you have a chance to visit this wonderful town too.

And that is all for now.  Arrivederci,


Thursday, May 28, 2015

One Capri, Two Perspectives

“We are different because our brain is wired differently. This causes us to perceive the world in different ways and have different values and priorities. Not better or worse - different.” Allan Pease


As my time in Italy is running out, I am going through my list and making sure I've visited the places I wanted to visit and ate the foods I wanted to eat.  So, while checking my Italy bucket list, I realized I had not seen Capri yet!  Anxiety sets in, in no time I'm looking for places to stay and booking train tickets. To get there from Rome, you have take the train to Naples, a taxi to the port and a ferry to Capri (four and a half hours door to door).  You can also get there by boat from the Amalfi coast.


Capri is one of those places that is well-known around the world and that the Italians gracefully leave for the tourists.  They have their own islands they are not marketing to foreigners because they want to keep those to themselves (Ischia, Procida, Sardenia).  Most of of my Italian friends had recommended us to go elsewhere, but how could I possibly leave Italy without seeing this beautiful island?  So I went.


Woman's Perspective:
My friends and the entire world say it's wonderful, I have to see it!

Man's Perpective:
I'm only going because you want to go.

Woman's Perspective:
Wow, look at that nice street lined with luxury brands! Prada, Gucci, Bulgari!

Man's Perpective:
Nothing for me here.

Woman's Perspective:
The Blue Grotto, we have to go, it's such a romantic place!

Man's Perspective:
Tourist trap!  PS. If you are going to do it, you can take the 70 euro private boat from Marina Grande, or the 18 euro sight seeing boat, however, the entrance to the blue grotto is right on the other side of the island, so why not take the 1.80 euro orange bus to the Blue Grotto and then go down the steps to the entrance of the cave?  Seeing the Blue Grotto takes you just a couple of minutes, once you've gone through the entrance of the cave you're there, check out the deep blue reflexion of the light on the water and your time is up.  If you are lucky your boat guy sings.  13 Euro a person to see the Blue Grotto.  More if you took the boats to get there.

The best of Capri was the sunset by the lighthouse.  Second best, we got the recipe of Scialatielli, a wonderful fresh pasta, from the restaurant L'Angolo del Gusto in Anacapri.  Since sharing is caring, here is the recipe:


And don't forget to eat a Caprese Salad while you are in Capri!  (Caprese=from Capri).  Had a very nice meal at Ristorante Pizzeria Verginiello, would certainly recommend it.



Arrivederci for now,




Friday, April 3, 2015

Time for Gelato

"Io che qui sto morendo, e tu che mangi il gelato" I'm here dying and you are eating gelato. Lucio Dalla


Hello Spring!  Weather in Rome has been fabulous this last week, and with nice warm weather I get an intense need for gelato.  Since we are going to be talking about gelato we need to realize not all gelato is created equal.  The good artisanal gelato can be spotted following these tips:
  • Are the mountains of gelato bigger than Mt. Everest?  Probably not the best quality, as gelato made with real ingredients will not be able to withstand such heights.
  • Are the colors realistic as found in nature?  A connoisseur told me to check the banana flavor and make sure it's white and not yellow.  Beware of bright blue Smurf flavors and mint that is kryptonite green.
  •  The texture should be creamy and it should not be overly sweet.
Now that you'll be able to recognize a good artisanal gelato let's see where to find them in Rome.  Let's have an award ceremony:

1. My personal favorite and winner of all my informal market research:

Come Il Late

This gelateria makes the cones on the spot and the sweet smell emanating from the store is impossible to resist.  The cone is first filled with dark or white chocolate and it's topped with an extra chocolate covered wafer.  The flavors are very authentic; try their Mango, Salted Caramel or any flavor your heart desires....you won't be disappointed.



2. A Traditional Gelateria 

Giolitti


A nice traditional gelateria with a location downtown rome and two others (click on the link for addresses).  There is always a long line outside.  Note: If you sit down and get service at your table, the gelato will be more expensive than if you get your ticket and choose your gelato at the counter.  









3. When More Means A Lot More

Gelateria Della Palma 

Claim to fame of Gelateria della Palma is that they serve 150 flavors, and they do!  It is located steps from the Pantheon, so if you are out admiring this wonderful church, don't miss a visit to Gelateria della Palma.




4. One for the Organic Lovers

GROM

GROM is a chain with several locations around town.  They only use organic ingredients and their flavors vary with the season as they use seasonal ingredients.  They don't use colorants nor chemicals of any kind.  Only a few flavors available, but they are all excellent!  

5. The Out of the Way Combo Kings

Mondi (Via Flaminia Vecchia 468)

This gelateria and pastry store is one of the best of Rome but is not in the center of town.  Located in the The Ponte Milvio neighborhood if you decide to go for a ride, other than gelato, you'll be enjoying a part of Rome that has been kept for locals only.  Mondi offers great combo flavors like Zabaione (eggnog) with crunchy caramel and pistacchio or Vanilla with raspberry and chocolate bits.  

6. Last but not Least

Frigidarium

Located a couple of blocks from Piazza Navona, at the heart of old Rome.  This gelateria is a great stop after visiting the wonderful churches and statues of this beautiful city.



And now, with all this talk about gelato, I think I am going to head out the door and get one.  Arrivederci for now,




Sunday, February 22, 2015

Learning About Food

“This is my invariable advice to people: Learn how to cook- try new recipes, learn from your mistakes, be fearless, and above all have fun!” Julia Child


One of the joys of living in Italy has been learning more about food.  The way Italians prepare their food accepting nothing but the best ingredients is something we should all learn from them, as food can make you sick or it can be your best medicine.  I will certainly take with me the fact that the closer you are to the source of your produce, the better your food will taste.  And the cleaner your food is (less processed), the healthier you'll be.

I've had the pleasure to meet Rita, an Italian friend who runs a county-style restaurant where she also gives cooking lessons to those foreigners crazy about Italian food, like me.  I've learned lots of good cooking tips from Rita, but her passion for eating unprocessed foods when mother Earth gives them to you, is in my opinion the best lesson to take away.

In Italy they respect the cycles of the earth, and the produce you find available at the markets is what's in season in Italy at the moment.  If you are American, you've probably been spoiled by having every fruit or vegetable available to you whenever you want it.  You just have to come to accept that produce travels from far away places to end up at your table.  But, have you ever really considered when was your produce harvested and how long has its trip been before reaching your table?

"Farm to table" is not a trendy concept here in Italy,  it's a way of living, and my friend Rita, lives by this principle as she grows her own vegetables or finds sources as close to her as possible.  Needless to say, her cuisine is divine.  If you are in Rome and have enough time to escape the city for a countryside lunch or brunch, look her up: A Casa Di Rita.  You won't regret it.  And if you live in Rome, check out her cooking lessons, they are the best!




Arrivederci for now,



Sunday, February 8, 2015

Un Caffè? Coffee?

“To espresso or to latte, that is the question..." Jasper Fforde


I love discovering someone else's favorite Rome spots.  The other day I set out for one of my walks around Rome with a friend of mine who lives right in the middle of downtown Rome and has found her Rome in "centro" (the center of town).  Because we all have "versions" of our city, expanding our repertoires little by little around our homes and work places.

Our walk that day took us to Piazza Navona, as you know, one of my favorite squares in Rome.  After walking and talking for a while, the inevitable question came up: un caffè?  (I don't really drink coffee but) Sure, why not?!  I have learned to drink decaff since I got to Rome, because living in Italy without drinking coffee is just too painful.

When in Rome....you drink coffee for breakfast, whether at home from a macchinetta or at the bar (coffee-bar that is).  You also must have a mid-morning coffee which other than giving you a shot of energy, is an excuse to get you out of the office/house to stretch your legs and get some fresh air. There is no way of finishing lunch without a shot of espresso; sometimes you won't even get the bill unless you are done with your coffee.  Mid-afternoon is the perfect time for coffee time (same reason as for the mid-morning coffee). Finally, after-dinner coffee is still a widely used costume.   Can you now see why it's hard to live here being a non-coffee-drinker?

My personal collection of "macchinette", italian coffee makers

Un caffè? is a question you'll hear often here in Italy.  Is an invitation, as most people love to treat you.  There is also a specific time for coffee, and if you hit the coffee bar at 10:00 am for example, it will be packed beyond belief.  The good news is that most Italians drink espresso shots, standing up and they are on their way promptly.  The fact that there are no lines in the coffee bar, just clouds of people around the counter can prove a bit intimidating, specially for a vertically-challenged foreigner, like me.  If you arrive at the bar (coffee-bar that is) and it's packed, just wait a few minutes and you'll have the chance to try your luck at ordering in peace.  Remember that here, an espresso is know as "un caffè".  Don't go asking for espressos here in Italy.  For a list of the different coffee options click here.

Un caffè?  Sure, why not.  We headed out to a famous downtown coffee bar called Sant'Eustachio.  If you happen to be nearby Piazza Navona, make sure you stop there, savor their already sweetened coffee and pick up a souvenir or two from their many coffee paraphernalia offerings.  This place is a true Roman coffee bar but given its location, it's used to having tourists among their usual clientele.


Arrivederci for now,

Sunday, December 14, 2014

Il Ginanicolo, One of the Best Views of Rome

"She taught me to slow down.  To look up and enjoy the view.  To not worry so much about the end result that I end up missing things along the way.” Lisa Schroeder, Chasing Brooklyn



You may already know that ancient Rome was a city with seven hills, each one with distinct importance and enough history to fill volumes of books.  In present day Rome, there is a hill called the Gianicolo that has lots of interesting attractions and that seldom gets included in pre-planned city tours.  If you have a little extra time in Rome and are looking for a great view of the city, head to the Gianicolo hill and you will find the following:




One of my favorite views of the Rome.    I don't have to say much, just look at the image above and judge for yourself.

A canon that shoots at noon everyday!  Kids (maybe not those afraid of loud noises) will love the thrill of listening to a real canon shoot at noon, everyday, rain or shine.  It is said that the shooting of the canon was started by Pope Pio IX in 1847 to synchronize the sounding of the bells in all the churches of Rome.  The canon has been on the Gianicolo hill since 1904.



Monument to Garibaldi.  An equestrian statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi overlooking the Gianicolo hill.  

The Fontanone.  Officially called the Fountain of Acqua Paola it debuted in the latest Italian film to win an Academy Award to the Best Foreign Language Film, the Great Beauty. 

The Gianicolo hill is located near Saint Peter's and Trastevere, if you are in the area, don't hesitate to visit this great part of town.  If you are an avid photographer, the stop at the Gianicolo is a must!  If you want to read about another place from where to take great pictures of Rome, click here.



Arrivederci,


Thursday, December 4, 2014

Italian Food: Where to Order Your Favorite Italian Dishes

"They have preserved the conditions of preparing food, handed down through generations, and have come to know them as expressions of their families." Bill Buford, Heat


We all know Italian food it's amazing, then why on earth do I hear many people saying they came to Italy and didn't really get an extraordinary meal?  I think I know the answer.  They are ordering the wrong dishes in the wrong places.

So let's back up a little.  Italian food is very regional, meaning the dishes you find in one part of Italy are not necessarily what you would want to order in another region.  They are specialized in their cuisine as it mostly involves very local ingredients.  Here is the deal for those of you planning to visit Italy and would like to have an out-of-this-world experience when it comes to food.  Of course this will require you to be a bit open-minded and willing to order something you may not have had in mind.



The tip of the day: order your dishes according to your location, be adventurous and you will be rewarded with an amazing meal.  So here is they list of regions and the dishes they're known for:

When in Rome (Region: Lazio) order the following:
  • Spaghetti All'Amatriciana (red sauce with pig cheeks bacon that tastes just like bacon)
  • Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe (like a local mac and cheese with pepper)
  • Spaghetti Alla Carbonara (pasta with egg, pecorino cheese and the pig cheek bacon)
  • Carcciofi alla Giudia (artichokes jewish style)
  • Abbacchio alla Romana (roman baby-lamb)

When in Florence (Region: Tuscany) order the following:
  • Bistecca Alla Fiorentina (Florence-style steak)
  • Ribollita (soup with beans and chard)
  • Pappa al Pomodoro (local bread soaked in tomato sauce)
When in Venice (Region: Veneto) order the following:

  • Baccalà Mantecato (creamed baccalà)
  • Sarde in Saor (Sardines Ventian-style with raisins)
When in Genova (Region: Liguria) order the following: 
  • Troffie al Pesto (short fresh pasta with pesto sauce, their local specialty)
  • Anything al Pesto
  • Farinata (Chickpea flour bread, kinds of like a corn bread consistency)
When in Milan (Region: Lombardia) order the following:
  • Agnolini di Carne in Brodo (small meat-stuffed pasta in broth)
  • Risotto (typical Milanese dish)
  • Tortelli Alla Zucca (pumpkin-stuffed ravioli)
  • Cotoletta Alla Milanese (breaded chicken breast)
When in Bologna (Region: Emilia Romagna) order the following:
  • Tagliatelle al Ragu (the real name for spaghetti Bolognese)
  • Piadina (flat bread with any local ham)
  • Lasagna al Forno (baked pasta layered with meat sauce)
  • Anything with balsamic vinegar reduction
  • Polpettone (meatloaf)
When in the South of Italy and anywhere near the ocean, always go with seafood and fish.


When inlands, something with mushrooms (funghi) is always good.
When in doubt order Spaghetti al Pomodoro (tomato sauce) or Spaghetti aglio olio (pasta with oil and garlic). And Naples=Pizza.

Hope you have a wonderful trip to Italy and that you get to try their amazing dishes and remember their fresh and intense flavors for years to come.  If you live in Rome and are looking for international food, click here for a list of non-italian restaurants.

And that is all for today.  Buon Apettito 




Friday, October 17, 2014

Be a Traveler not a Tourist

“The traveler sees what he sees. The tourist sees what he has come to see.” G.K. Chesterton


I just got back from a trip to the Cinque Terre (Five Lands) National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and even though the villages are beautiful and quaint, I couldn't be more bothered by the behavior of the visiting tourists.   I'll try to explain why.

The Cinque Terre are five fishing villages built on the coast line of the Italian region of Liguria, on what is known as the Italian Riviera.  Their lifestyle seems to have changed very little since the late middle ages, when they first sprouted.  Even though the park groups the five villages under one name, they are actually five independent towns called Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore.  You can hike from one to the other in about an hour and a half.  They are also connected by a regional train line that gets you from one town to the adjacent one in about 5 minutes.  

You can choose to stay in one of the towns, Monterosso al Mare being the biggest and the one that offers more options regarding accommodations.  I would recommend against staying in Corniglia, because it's the only one that sits above the cliffs and from the train station to the town you have to climb 365 steps.  Something I wouldn't want to do every time I went exploring the other towns.


Staying in Vernazza gave me the opportunity to really experience the town.  I woke up early walked the two steps to the main and only piazza (city square) and just sat, observing a day in the life of the town.  The postwoman (wearing way too much make-up at 7am) delivering mail, chatting with every store clerk for at least 10 minutes before getting down to business.  The robust garbage man, too big for his mini-version of a garbage truck.  The town elders, the first ones to rise, ready to direct anything that might be going on that day.  The young local guys, ready to help pushing a boat out of the water.  The grandmas yelling at the kids from a second story window.

From seven to about ten in the morning, being in Vernazza was kind of being in an Italian movie set, full of strong characters living a simple life.  At about ten in the morning the trains started arriving loaded with tourists.  They arrived in packs, dressed head to toe in Cabella's, LLBean's and Orvis' hiking gear as if they were about to climb the Himalayas.  The magic was gone.  I know the towns live out of tourism, but do we tourists need to be so disruptive to their way of life?  These are one street towns, with not a lot of room for loud obnoxious tourists.  Like the group that sat next to me one night and started singing "That's Amore" at the top of their lungs, disrupting the piazza's romantic charm.  Or the guy outfitted all in Washington State gear demanding eggs and bacon for breakfast (read all about eating in Italy here).  

If you try to observe your surrounding and catch a glimpse of their conversations you will see the several hand gestures a minute for which Italians are known.  If at the restaurant you didn't ask for your fish to be served without the head, you would witness the surgical precision with which the waiter debones that fish and hear, like I did, how it was caught that very same morning and how proud they are to serve you nothing but the best.

Please, don't ruin the postcard perfect scenery, be a traveler not a tourist.

Arrivederci for now,

Thursday, October 9, 2014

10 Things You Need to Know Before Eating in Italy

“Watching Italians eat (especially men, I have to say) is a form of tourism the books don't tell you about." Barbara Kingsolver


Let's talk about one of my favorite subjects: Italian food.  Having tried "Italian" cuisine around the world, I have to say it does not compare to eating real Italian food IN ITALY.  Italians love to break rules, unless we are talking about food, then their rules are very strict as they don't like to deviate from tradition.  So, I'm going to share 10 things I've learned and that you should know before eating in Italy:


1. Have your breakfast standing: Regular Italian breakfast consist of coffee and a croissant, locally called "cornetto".  Since it will take you about two seconds to drink your shot of espresso, Italians usually have their coffee standing at the coffee bar.  If you sit at a table and wait to be served, you will be charge quadruple the price. Beware!

2. Is it lunch time yet?: Don't show up at a restaurant before 12:30, they will not be ready.  

3. Order in Order: There is a specific order when it comes to eating Italian food.  If you order out of that specific order, you may be frown upon or else.  So here is the order:
  • Antipasto: Is the appetizer 
  • Primi: Is your pasta dish
  • Secondo: Is you your meat/chicken/fish dish which can be ordered at the same time  as the side dishes; normally you will have to order your sides (called "contorni" in Italian) as they don't come with the meat dish.
  • Dolce: Is is your dessert
Now, you don't have to order all the courses, just make sure you don't order a Secondo first and then and antipasto.


4. Do not mix and match: Food in Italy is approached with the same devotion as a religion. Do not mix and match when it comes to food in Italy.  If you order a pasta dish as a Primi (first course) and a chicken dish as a Secondo (second course) DO NOT put your chicken and your pasta in the same plate!! All you need to know is that it's a sin ;)


5. Ranch, what is "Ranch"?: When it comes to salads you will not find several pre-mixed dressing options.  Most likely your only option will be bottles of Olive Oil and Vinegar at your table, and salt and pepper.  You are expected to season your own salad to taste.  Sorry, only Italian-style in Italy.


6. Dishes you won't find: Italians around the world have allowed themselves to be creative and break the rules that are so strict in their country of origin.  However, no matter how much you search for them you won't (easily) find: Spaghetti and Meatballs, Spaghetti with chicken legs, Pasta Alfredo, pasta with everything but the kitchen sink on it.  Their dishes are usually built with a few "extremely good" ingredients.


7. The real meaning of Pepperoni: In Italian the word Pepperoni means Bell Peppers, so if you order a "Pepperoni" pizza, you'll get red bell peppers as a topping.  If you want an American pepperoni pizza try "Pizza alla Diavola" which comes with a spicy salami on top.  It's yummy, you will not be disappointed. 


8. Is it dinner time yet?: No. If you are looking to dine at 6:00 pm, you're out of luck, it's not dinner time until around 8:00 pm.  If you are starving, you can try an Aperitivo, a drink which comes with little munchies, kind of like happy hour.


9. Now it's dinner time: Same rules apply as at lunch time.  Ah, and no need to tip a percentage of the meal, a couple of Euros will do.  Waiters receive a salary and are not dependent on the tips to make a living.  


10. The best part of it all: Take your time! Enjoy your meal! Have some wine! Eat out on the terrace if the weather is nice.  Nobody will rush you out, they will not bring you the bill as soon as your food is on the table, they will not even bring it what you are taking your last bite.  You can linger for as long as you want, talk, laugh and take it all in.  Lower the RPMs and enjoy your real Italian food experience.

Arrivederci for now,