Things to Do While in Rome: Street Art

“People say graffiti is ugly, irresponsible and childish... but that's only if it's done properly.”  Banksy 

Rome is a city with countless works of art, any church you decide to visit will most likely take your breath away.  There are fountains and statues around any given corner in the city; so many that you'll need more than a lifetime to see them all.  Rome also offers wonderful museums and exhibitions.  However, if church art or deepening your understanding of Roman history is not necessarily your thing, let me tell you that Rome also houses the other type of art: street art!

Pope Francis graffiti @ Spanish Steps Metro

Street artists are present in the major piazzas of Rome, like in Piazza del Popolo and Trastevere.  You'll find a vast array of artists from mimes to clowns, painters and my personal favorites the musicians.  On via Frattina, a quick walk from the Spanish Steps, you'll find opera singers and a violinist that gift us with a perfect soundtrack for our Roman vacation.

Graffiti has recently been taken seriously by the city and agreements have been signed between authorities and street artists to grant them exclusive use of certain city walls to display their art or beautify the city.  The neighborhood of Testaccio has been used as a canvas for graffiti artists, take a walk around and don't miss a stop at their new market.

One of the street artists that has me running around town trying to collect pictures of his work is #CletAbraham, who decorates DO NOT ENTER signs with rebellious stick men and more.  So, if you're planning a trip to Rome, don't forget to keep your eyes open for not only the beautiful art of old Romans, but also the new expressions of art of this generation.

Arrivederci for now,

Things to Do While in Rome: Testaccio Market

"But before we can radically reshape the world, we need to shop.”  John Green

Let's get it out right away, I love markets, food markets that is.  If you really want to get to know a city and its people, go to the local market and observe how the microcosmos of a neighborhood work.  Growing up in South America, my Saturday morning routine included a visit to the market with my mother, you always got the best deals and came home with baskets full of treasures, and fresh fish.  A market can be a bit intimidating, vendors are loud especially if the place is crowded, but no other spot is so full of life and real city scenes than the market. 

If you are coming to Rome, make sure you carve some time to visit the Testaccio market.  Testaccio is a Roman neighborhood on the south west of the city center.  Many connoisseurs say Testaccio is one of the few Roman neighborhoods that has kept its original "flavor", where you do not see many tourists and life is like that of a small town.  To get to the Testaccio market, take the Metro B to the Piramide stop from where you'll have a ten minute walk to reach the market.

This market can be a one-stop-shop as you do not only find fresh produce but you'll also find great deals in shoes, bags, belts, vintage cooking ware; basically anything your heart desires and more. 

If you love food, I would encourage you to join the Taste of Testaccio eating tour, that will take you around the neighborhood with a stop at the Testaccio Market.  The stories I learned about many of the vendors made me love this place even more.

If you are there around lunch or dinner time, a couple restaurants I can recommend are Angelina at Testaccio and Flavio  al Velavevadetto, both great at making the typical Roman dishes (don't know what the typical Roman dishes are? click here!)

Hope you have the chance to visit this charming part of #Rome!

PS. Keep your eyes open and see if you can spot the cool street art around Testaccio...

Arrivederci for now,

From Me To You

“The meaning of life is to find your gift. The purpose of life is to give it away.”  Pablo Picasso

Gift giving is something many of us associate with birthdays and Christmas, at least I know I do. But in reality we should not have to wait for a certain date to share a gift with those we love.  And I am really enjoying the trend of "paying it forward", when people do something nice for a complete stranger without expecting anything in return.  The world is so crazy right now, that those on the side of peace, love and tolerance, need to step up our game and give more of us to the world.

There are people who are natural givers, including my sister-in-law and my friends Rosi.  No matter how busy they are and how hard life is at a particular moment, they always find time for others and in my opinion, there is no better gift to give than your time and your presence.

But going back to my recurrent theme of all things Italian, I wanted to share with you how much I appreciate gift giving in Italy, as many people still give culinary presents to each other.  And I'm not talking about a box of chocolates they picked up at the store, I'm talking about jellies and preservers, garlic-flavored olive oil and spicy pepperoncino, all home made.  I can only imagine the amount of time and work it took the cook to peel, cut, process and bottle a preserve.  I don't care if I get onion jelly in a jar that used to hold tomatoes, I don't care if the presentation is not as fancy as the one from the store.  Home-made-with-love is the only label I really care about.  (PS. have you every tried onion jelly? yummo!!)  And all the jars used for these culinary presents are reused and recycled.

A couple of weeks ago, when the season for lemons was in full swing, we received a whole bunch of organic lemons from a friend of ours.  Son#2 made tons of lemonade and I baked my friend Laura's Lemon Cake, but my husband really wanted to try making home-made Limoncello.

So today, from me to you, here is my Hubby's Limoncello recipe:

Peel the lemons making sure you are only taking the yellow part of the peel (leave the white part behind, it will make your limoncello bitter).  Pour the alcohol in a big glass container and add the lemon peel.  Leave the concoction to macerate for 11 to 15 days.  Shake the container every day.  After your long wait, make a syrup with water and sugar (bring the water to a boil, pour the sugar and mix until it dissolves) let it cool completely.  Pour your alcohol mix through a strainer or cheese cloth to get rid of the lemon peel.  Add your alcohol mixture to your cool syrup.  Mix well. Pour your home made Limoncello into glass bottles and keep it in the freezer.  Enjoy a chilled shot glass after dinner.

Arrivederci, and pay it forward whenever you can!

Learning About Food

“This is my invariable advice to people: Learn how to cook- try new recipes, learn from your mistakes, be fearless, and above all have fun!” Julia Child

One of the joys of living in Italy has been learning more about food.  The way Italians prepare their food accepting nothing but the best ingredients is something we should all learn from them, as food can make you sick or it can be your best medicine.  I will certainly take with me the fact that the closer you are to the source of your produce, the better your food will taste.  And the cleaner your food is (less processed), the healthier you'll be.

I've had the pleasure to meet Rita, an Italian friend who runs a county-style restaurant where she also gives cooking lessons to those foreigners crazy about Italian food, like me.  I've learned lots of good cooking tips from Rita, but her passion for eating unprocessed foods when mother Earth gives them to you, is in my opinion the best lesson to take away.

In Italy they respect the cycles of the earth, and the produce you find available at the markets is what's in season in Italy at the moment.  If you are American, you've probably been spoiled by having every fruit or vegetable available to you whenever you want it.  You just have to come to accept that produce travels from far away places to end up at your table.  But, have you ever really considered when was your produce harvested and how long has its trip been before reaching your table?

"Farm to table" is not a trendy concept here in Italy,  it's a way of living, and my friend Rita, lives by this principle as she grows her own vegetables or finds sources as close to her as possible.  Needless to say, her cuisine is divine.  If you are in Rome and have enough time to escape the city for a countryside lunch or brunch, look her up: A Casa Di Rita.  You won't regret it.  And if you live in Rome, check out her cooking lessons, they are the best!

Arrivederci for now,

Un Caffè? Coffee?

“To espresso or to latte, that is the question..." Jasper Fforde

I love discovering someone else's favorite Rome spots.  The other day I set out for one of my walks around Rome with a friend of mine who lives right in the middle of downtown Rome and has found her Rome in "centro" (the center of town).  Because we all have "versions" of our city, expanding our repertoires little by little around our homes and work places.

Our walk that day took us to Piazza Navona, as you know, one of my favorite squares in Rome.  After walking and talking for a while, the inevitable question came up: un caffè?  (I don't really drink coffee but) Sure, why not?!  I have learned to drink decaff since I got to Rome, because living in Italy without drinking coffee is just too painful.

When in Rome....you drink coffee for breakfast, whether at home from a macchinetta or at the bar (coffee-bar that is).  You also must have a mid-morning coffee which other than giving you a shot of energy, is an excuse to get you out of the office/house to stretch your legs and get some fresh air. There is no way of finishing lunch without a shot of espresso; sometimes you won't even get the bill unless you are done with your coffee.  Mid-afternoon is the perfect time for coffee time (same reason as for the mid-morning coffee). Finally, after-dinner coffee is still a widely used costume.   Can you now see why it's hard to live here being a non-coffee-drinker?

My personal collection of "macchinette", italian coffee makers

Un caffè? is a question you'll hear often here in Italy.  Is an invitation, as most people love to treat you.  There is also a specific time for coffee, and if you hit the coffee bar at 10:00 am for example, it will be packed beyond belief.  The good news is that most Italians drink espresso shots, standing up and they are on their way promptly.  The fact that there are no lines in the coffee bar, just clouds of people around the counter can prove a bit intimidating, specially for a vertically-challenged foreigner, like me.  If you arrive at the bar (coffee-bar that is) and it's packed, just wait a few minutes and you'll have the chance to try your luck at ordering in peace.  Remember that here, an espresso is know as "un caffè".  Don't go asking for espressos here in Italy.  For a list of the different coffee options click here.

Un caffè?  Sure, why not.  We headed out to a famous downtown coffee bar called Sant'Eustachio.  If you happen to be nearby Piazza Navona, make sure you stop there, savor their already sweetened coffee and pick up a souvenir or two from their many coffee paraphernalia offerings.  This place is a true Roman coffee bar but given its location, it's used to having tourists among their usual clientele.

Arrivederci for now,

Making the Effort of Staying Connected

“We cannot live only for ourselves. A thousand fibers connect us with our fellow men; and among those fibers, as sympathetic threads, our actions run as causes, and they come back to us as effects.” Herman Melville

After having picked up my life and re-established myself in a different country enough times than I care to count, it almost feels I have lived several lives.  Every posting has had its good and not so good experiences, but they all have enriched my life.  The most rewarding experiences, however, have been the opportunities I've had to make friends along the way.

Which brings us to the topic of today's post: It's All About Connections.  I'm not talking about professional networking, which is extremely important in any field, but I'm more interested in the personal connections we've made with those whom we've crossed paths along this #expat #life.

Last week I read an interesting article on the cause of addiction, which suggested that the cure to substance abuse is far more attainable when working with addicts to help them find bonds with people instead of with drugs.  An interesting approach.  But if "bonding" with one another can affect us in such a way as to make us determine if our life is worth living -sober, what does this nomad life do to us?  Can leaving our friends every few years break the bonds we've created along the way?

All those who have relocated know the pain caused by leaving friends behind, but I want to believe that having lived my adult life moving around has forced me to make more connections throughout my life.  Some can argue these may be weaker connections than those made by a lifetime of being in one place, but I can honestly say I have friends spread out around the world.  No matter where life takes me next I can count on the fact that friends will put me in contact with their connections if it's not that I personally know someone already there. And if making bonds with people is so important, the more bonds you create the better off you'll be, right?

Staying connected today is a breeze compared to what it was in the pre-internet days.  But still, maintaining friendships with those who've entered your life takes time and effort.  We also have to take into consideration that it is our responsibility to help our children keep their connections, think about it as a duty you acquired when you signed them up for this lifestyle.  So make a point of visiting old friends when you go back home or when you travel. And what can be better than seeing someone again after a long hiatus and catching up?

Today I had lunch with an old friend, and let me tell you it has refreshed my spirits.  To all those who move around for a living, my humble advise is: make the effort, keep your connections.

Arrivederci for now,

If Life Gives You Lemons....

"A person cooking is a person giving.  Even the simplest of food is a gift" Laurie Colwin

Life has given me lemons...literally!  Lemons are in season at the moment in Italy and I was lucky enough to get a sack of organic lemons from a friend who grows them (click here to read the health benefits of lemons).  After thinking what to do with all those lemons (other than lemonade) I remembered my friend Laura had given me a lemon cake recipe, that has now become part of my collection of recipes from around the world.   The cake was a big hit with my kids and other friends started asking for the recipe.  So here it goes,

1 1/2 cups of flour

1/2 teaspoon of baking soda

1/2 teaspoon of baking powder

1/2 teaspoon of salt

3 eggs

1 cup of sugar

2 tablespoons of butter; softened

1 teaspoon of vanilla extract

1 teaspoon of lemon extract

1/3 cups lemon juice

1/2 cup of vegetable oil

Combine flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt in a bowl.  In another bowl, mix eggs, sugar, butter, vanilla, lemon extract and lemon juice.  Pour dry ingredients into wet ones, mixing and blending until smooth.  Add oil and mix a little more.  Pour the batter into a well greased 9x5 inch loaf pan.  Bake at 350 F (180 C) for 45 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean.

Lemon Icing: 1 cup of powder sugar, 2 tablespoons of milk, 1/2 teaspoon of lemon extract.  Combine all ingredients and frost the cake after it has cooled.  Let the icing set before slicing the cake.

Enjoy!!

Something else we are thinking of doing with our organic lemons is Limoncello, an after dinner liquor from the Sorrentine Peninsula that is simply amazing.  If all goes well, I will share the recipe in a following post.

Arrivederci for now,

Dressing Like an Italian: Winter Fashion

“Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance.” Coco Chanel 

My time in Rome is coming to an end... unfortunately.  But I am taking advantage of the months I have ahead of me to enjoy this beautiful city as much as I can.  This week I took a day off my daily routine and went to the city center to sit, observe and take it all in.   I ended up at the Spanish Steps (near Piazza del Popolo), wondering how can a city be so beautiful.

As I was people watching, I noticed that the colder weather (mid 50s) is just another reason for Romans to dress-to-impress.  The "winter look" out on the streets it's pretty much a uniform around here, and here it goes, the Roman winter look demystified:

We'd all agreed with the fact that we lose body heat through our head and that it's a normal practice in cold weather countries to wear hats during the winter....but let me tell you, Romans take it to a whole new level.  Instead of taking about it, I'll share with you some images what I saw... 

#Fedoras, #beanies and #floppy-hats were all out in force.  If are ready to dig into the latest fashion trend, I suggest you buy a winter hat!  They are all in vogue.

People-watching is my second favorite pass time here in Rome, the first one being eating , of course (did you guess that one?).  And what a better spot to people-watch than sitting in the ancient Spanish Steps in the heart of Rome's fashion district.  A later post will concentrate on this magical spot.  Until then, enjoy the pictures and if you are in the northern hemisphere, wear a #hat to stay warm and look fabulous!

Arrivederci for now,

Searching for the Sun: The Amalfi Coast

"Yea, tomorrow may rain, so I'll follow the sun" The Beatles

Hello there!  I am procrastinating a bit, by not finishing to put away all my holiday decorations. Now that the holidays are over, is it true all we have to look forward to is winter?  I guess I have to confess cold weather and my South American blood don't mix very well.  Every time I consider three months of cold days, I instantly start dreaming of warmer places, where the sun can give my skin a warm embrace and where I can take a deep breath of ocean air.

Since I am living in Italy, lets talk about the Amalfi coast.  Dreaming is free, and if you have a chance to actually get there you'll be amazed by its spectacular views and quaint seaside towns.  The Amalfi coast is a beautiful stretch of coastland of the Sorrentine Peninsula (South of Naples) comprised of several seaside towns, being the two stars of the show, Amalfi and Positano.  The winding State Road 163 runs along the cliffs connecting the towns between Positano and Vietri Sul Mare, the two ends of the Amalfi Coast.

Bookending the Amalfi Coast you'll find the town of Sorrento and the city of Salerno.  Sorrento, apart from its natural beauty, is known for its Limoncello, a lemon flavored liquor made with the giant local lemons.  If you visit, don't leave without buying a bottle to enjoy the Sorrentine flavor long after your trip.  Salerno, on the eastern side of the Amalfi Coast, is a big port city with enough charm to be worth the visit.  Being the bigger city in the area it also offers a wide range of accommodations.

Now to the stars of the show:

Amalfi: The beauty of this town is undeniable; its Mediterranean landscape is a combination of cliffs, ocean views and unique architecture built along the natural terrain.    Let's not forget the fantastic food that will knock your socks off (Try DaMaria Restaurant).  When eating in the Amalfi coast, go for their seafood dishes.  They are spectacular! And for dessert, try their Delizia di Limone.  You won't regret it.

Positano: Another quaint town, with restaurants overlooking the ocean, a rocky beach and enough charm to make a permanent impression in your soul.  White linen clothing is sold around their narrow cobble-stone streets and their local jeweled sandals are also typical of the area.

Ravello:  Its location overlooking the coast makes it wonderful for panoramic views, amazing sunsets and moonscapes.  A photographer's dream!  Ravello hosts a yearly festival featuring classical music, film and arts.  For information on this event, click here.

The towns are connected by a ferry system called Traghetto in Italian.  Also a bus system is used for reaching the nearby towns as well as the cities of Naples, Sorrento and Salerno, again, remember the roads are narrow and high on the horizon and traffic has to stop sometimes to let buses go through tunnels.  It is also possible to rent a boat and to sail from one town to the other by sea.  If you are experienced and intrepid I recommend this method of transportation.  You "park" your boat right outside the beach areas and for 5 euro the boat "taxis" will pick you up and drop you at the pier.

If you are crazy for ceramics make sure you stop at the eastern tip of the coast in Vietri Sul Mare.   Ceramics are everywhere to buy and to admire.

I was lucky enough to visit the area in off-season times, I imagine it is jammed packed during the summer months.  Of course the Amalfi Coast is a prime destination for romantic getaways.  And after looking at some of the pictures you can just imagine why.

Arrivederci for now,

Fun Things Happening in January

“And now we welcome the new year, full of things that have never been” Rainer Maria Rilke

Happy New Year!  I'm back home with my batteries re-charged, ready to share many more tips with you!  If you are coming to Italy this January, there are a couple of reasons to smile a big smile for choosing the beginning of the year for your trip.

First of all, the amount of tourists this time of the year is at its yearly minimum.  So you will have a lot less crowds to fight at the sights you've been waiting to see.  Also, you will still catch some of the holiday cheer since the holidays here don't end up until after January sixth.

And January 6th is a date to remember here in #Rome.  It's the celebration of the "Befana".  My first year in Italy I took a stroll in one of the most renown piazzas (squares) of Rome, Piazza Navona.  There, a Christmas market has been setting up every year for as long as the city cares to remember.  They sell all kinds of pieces for your Nativity Set and an array of goodies related to the Holidays.  During my first visit to Piazza Navona, I noticed something that was out our place in the vendors' carts.  A witch was adorning every stall at the piazza.  In my brain "witch=halloween", but what was she doing being around during Christmas time?  So I asked, and I learned.  It is not a witch, but the #BEFANA.  The Befana is an old lady who leaves candy for the kids in an old stocking on January sixth.  Ahhhh, I said, and that very same second, my kids demanded we celebrated the day of the Befana every year.  Of course, who can resist candy?!  Any reason is a good reason to get candy!

Today, the day before the Befana day, I went to the store to get "coal" for my boys; yes, the Befana brings candy to the kids who've been good all year and "coal" to the ones that have misbehaved.  Of course, nowadays the stores and pastry shops make coal-candy to be given out to the naughty kids, including mine ;)

The kids' stockings are filled, but what about the moms'?  Don't worry, January is the month of the SALDI, for the adults.  What does SALDI mean?  Sales!!  Yes, after the Christmas rush, Rome and many other parts of Europe are in Sale Time!  Here sales don't happen every weekend or every holiday.  They are found after January sixth and after the summer vacation; only twice a year the merchandise is on sale and the sales only apply to the items from the season that's coming to an end.  So make a side note in your budget and allocate some cash to the SALDI.  Leather goods, cashmere, you name it, it's all on SALDI!

If you are in Rome this January don't forget to celebrate the Befana and take advantage of the SALDI!

Arrivederci for now,

Happy Holidays to All

Happy Holidays Everyone! I hope you all have a wonderful time during this holiday season and that the new year brings new adventures to your life.  I will be celebrating Christmas away from home, so see you all in 2015!  

Merry Christmas and Best Wishes for the New Year!!  

Il Ginanicolo, One of the Best Views of Rome

"She taught me to slow down.  To look up and enjoy the view.  To not worry so much about the end result that I end up missing things along the way.” Lisa Schroeder, Chasing Brooklyn

You may already know that ancient Rome was a city with seven hills, each one with distinct importance and enough history to fill volumes of books.  In present day Rome, there is a hill called the Gianicolo that has lots of interesting attractions and that seldom gets included in pre-planned city tours.  If you have a little extra time in Rome and are looking for a great view of the city, head to the Gianicolo hill and you will find the following:

One of my favorite views of the Rome.    I don't have to say much, just look at the image above and judge for yourself.

A canon that shoots at noon everyday!  Kids (maybe not those afraid of loud noises) will love the thrill of listening to a real canon shoot at noon, everyday, rain or shine.  It is said that the shooting of the canon was started by Pope Pio IX in 1847 to synchronize the sounding of the bells in all the churches of Rome.  The canon has been on the Gianicolo hill since 1904.

Monument to Garibaldi.  An equestrian statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi overlooking the Gianicolo hill.  

The Fontanone.  Officially called the Fountain of Acqua Paola it debuted in the latest Italian film to win an Academy Award to the Best Foreign Language Film, the Great Beauty. 

The Gianicolo hill is located near Saint Peter's and Trastevere, if you are in the area, don't hesitate to visit this great part of town.  If you are an avid photographer, the stop at the Gianicolo is a must!  If you want to read about another place from where to take great pictures of Rome, click here.

Arrivederci,

Italian Food: Where to Order Your Favorite Italian Dishes

"They have preserved the conditions of preparing food, handed down through generations, and have come to know them as expressions of their families." Bill Buford, Heat

We all know Italian food it's amazing, then why on earth do I hear many people saying they came to Italy and didn't really get an extraordinary meal?  I think I know the answer.  They are ordering the wrong dishes in the wrong places.

So let's back up a little.  Italian food is very regional, meaning the dishes you find in one part of Italy are not necessarily what you would want to order in another region.  They are specialized in their cuisine as it mostly involves very local ingredients.  Here is the deal for those of you planning to visit Italy and would like to have an out-of-this-world experience when it comes to food.  Of course this will require you to be a bit open-minded and willing to order something you may not have had in mind.

The tip of the day: order your dishes according to your location, be adventurous and you will be rewarded with an amazing meal.  So here is they list of regions and the dishes they're known for:

When in Rome (Region: Lazio) order the following:

• Spaghetti All'Amatriciana (red sauce with pig cheeks bacon that tastes just like bacon)
• Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe (like a local mac and cheese with pepper)
• Spaghetti Alla Carbonara (pasta with egg, pecorino cheese and the pig cheek bacon)
• Carcciofi alla Giudia (artichokes jewish style)
• Abbacchio alla Romana (roman baby-lamb)

When in Florence (Region: Tuscany) order the following:

• Bistecca Alla Fiorentina (Florence-style steak)
• Ribollita (soup with beans and chard)
• Pappa al Pomodoro (local bread soaked in tomato sauce)

When in Venice (Region: Veneto) order the following:

• Baccalà Mantecato (creamed baccalà)
• Sarde in Saor (Sardines Ventian-style with raisins)

When in Genova (Region: Liguria) order the following: 

• Troffie al Pesto (short fresh pasta with pesto sauce, their local specialty)
• Anything al Pesto
• Farinata (Chickpea flour bread, kinds of like a corn bread consistency)

When in Milan (Region: Lombardia) order the following:

• Agnolini di Carne in Brodo (small meat-stuffed pasta in broth)
• Risotto (typical Milanese dish)
• Tortelli Alla Zucca (pumpkin-stuffed ravioli)
• Cotoletta Alla Milanese (breaded chicken breast)

When in Bologna (Region: Emilia Romagna) order the following:

• Tagliatelle al Ragu (the real name for spaghetti Bolognese)
• Piadina (flat bread with any local ham)
• Lasagna al Forno (baked pasta layered with meat sauce)
• Anything with balsamic vinegar reduction
• Polpettone (meatloaf)

When in the South of Italy and anywhere near the ocean, always go with seafood and fish.

When inlands, something with mushrooms (funghi) is always good.

When in doubt order Spaghetti al Pomodoro (tomato sauce) or Spaghetti aglio olio (pasta with oil and garlic). And Naples=Pizza.

Hope you have a wonderful trip to Italy and that you get to try their amazing dishes and remember their fresh and intense flavors for years to come.  If you live in Rome and are looking for international food, click here for a list of non-italian restaurants.

And that is all for today.  Buon Apettito